keskiviikko 9. syyskuuta 2009

Lofoten Islands

It seems every cloud has a silver lining or in this case an apple. After our trip to Lofoten Islands at the end of July it took quite awhile until I got the footage from the trip edited, as the good old (what a piece of crap) HP laptop took not so surprisingly it's last breath once again just after the trip. Finally things started to roll when I got an apple and FCE running on it. Now it seems there is no turning back.

But let's cut the crap, shall we. As you already may or may not know Lofoten offers a growing bunch of awesome problems with good quality in a very picturesque setting. If you are planning a trip to Lofoten you should definitely try some or all of the following. Problems in order of appearance are: King Fisher 7A, Slarti barfast 7B+, Monster 8A, Michael Knight 7C+, Nightrider 7C+, Nightrider Hoyre 8A+, Viileä Viive 7A and Presten roof 7A+.

sunnuntai 12. heinäkuuta 2009

Rovaniemi by night

I and Dr G decided to push our luck and try to take the advantage of a short time window of good cool weather forecasted in Rovaniemi between midninght and early morning hours. It is not usual to have temps below 10 degrees even at nights in the middle of July so it was well worth of giving it a shot.

We arrived to Hiidenkirnut just before midnight just as planned termometer showing 9 and half degrees, excellent. Quickly we unpacked our stuff and headed to Planta Baja stone. After some proper warmup it was time to start the action. Couple of hours went by and it seemed that maybe the good weather was just not enough as early hours were taking its toll and the best edge seemed to be lost. I had almost thrown my axe into the well before my fourth go when Dr G. told me to change the music and put some good old beats pounding proven to be effective already in Eastern in Åland. First I thought it was no use but then why not to give it a shot, just one more go for the team you know.

While the song started I figured just to give my best, not to worry about anything else. As I got to the crux moves it started to get really heavy, after each move I was sure I was going to fall from the next move but somehow I didn't. Soon I was hanging on the lip just the mantel between me and the top. I had my feet badly but knew there was no time to waste. Luckily I got the mantel move started and finished it by force, Ugly as hell but effective. Four year's epic was over and the project was no more. But what was most satisfying was the style how it was done, that I had completely suprised myself by finishing it when I thought it was not going to go any more. Thanks from that, keeping excellent spirit and making good music choice go absolutely to Dr DJ G! Training montage worked it's macig again.

lauantai 27. kesäkuuta 2009

Mid summer eve in Merikaarto

Had a splendid Mid summer eve in Merikaarto, Kolkki by slacklining some and climbing a bit more. Managed also to send magnificent, short but powerful boulder known as Antonin kasi A right from Senegal fast food of which Sami did a bit tougher sitstart two moves lower last autumn but forgot to give it a name. I bet that version will get couple of tries in next Vaasa visit.

lauantai 13. kesäkuuta 2009

Easy company

Had a short and relaxing trip to Hiidenkirnut in easy company of happy and merciless bullshitters which propably helped me in changing awhile plagued "almost but still not there yet" gear to sending mode by making FA to Rippe's old project in Planta baja stone left to the Uskon puute dyno. Easy Company 8A/7C+ is only two powerful moves on not so good holds and took two sessions this year and three last year.
The problem felt surely harder than linnuntie at the same block but maybe a tiny bit easier than ladamies, a boulder of similar character in Luohua, so we'll just have to wait for repeaters' opinions until we get a confirmation about the grade. A very nice problem anyway and a decent addition to already vast collection of quality problems in Rovaniemi.

torstai 28. toukokuuta 2009

My world of sin

Finally got together a teaser of two of the hardest problems in Pyhäntä boulder. The clip is more or less unfinished and full of cutting and editing errors but if you just want a bit more detailed view what those problems are all about check the video.
There is also a raw sequence of a linkup project, which starts with an easy slab and then links the Always broken other way around to No man's land finish, involving 15 hard, fingery, physical and somewhat acrobatic moves of which last two are the hardest. It certainly feels a good notch harder than No man's land assis. Let's see if the project get's it's FA on this season and other problems first repeats. The evenings and nights are still cold and friction good enough to try it and other problems out but the heat will come eventually.

sunnuntai 24. toukokuuta 2009

tiistai 12. toukokuuta 2009

Two classics from Pyhäntä

Here is a short video clip about action taken place in Pyhäntä boulder, the other mecca of Oulu bouldering, during last few years. More video to come from Pyhäntä and other locations as soon as we get it filmed and edited. Just got my hands into the strange but interesting world of video editing so just bear with me if you find the result horrible. It is interesting to see that the process from the raw material to edited clip does not come as easily as dinner to Manu.

torstai 7. toukokuuta 2009

Ystävät hämärän jälkeen

Last wednesday I, Rippe, Tomi and Matti took yet another trip to Oulu bouldering mecca, Luohua, in a mission to send some old projects that had been haunting us all spring. Weather was perfect, it had been cloudy all day and temperatures were around 10 degrees, which was a really pleasant welcome, as two of the projects were on the sunny side of the stone and would soon become even too hard to send because of the heat (just lack of strenght).

After some warm up and some relaxing bullshit it was time to start the action. Rippe immediately got his hands on his high, scary and bold sloper problem which starts with jumpstart to a good jug, continues with a lockoff through good pocket to really bad sloper, match and then you are supposed to make a deadpoint or dyno, if you dare, to an even worse sloper with your feet around 3 and half meters from the ground. After couple of tries ice was broken and Rippe got the deadpoint to the higher sloper spot on but couldn't continue as the hand was slipping from the sloper. He dropped down and gathered some strenght couple of minutes. It was time to make it or break it, an ankle or two. This time he got the deadpoint again spot on, stretched as high as he could reach to a slightly better sloper, put his left foot blindly on a tiny edge and made the horror match to another sloper around six meters. A high ball classic, "Ystävät hämärän jälkeen" had gotten it's first ascent, a truly four star high ball of which you may need balls size of Siwa plastic bags to try and send. Grade suggestion 7Cish, siwa index 5.

Tomi soon took the advantage about the Rippe's send and made a stylish repeat to Standardipoikien homonurkkaus 7B by locking off the crux by everything he got left.

Dark side auki

Olihan se viimein aika laittaa itsekin blogi pystyyn tarkoituksena raportoida Caven poppoon kiipeilyistä Oulun ympäristössä ja muuallakin. Yritetään päivittää blogia säännöllisen epäsäännöllisesti, ainakin silloin kun on jotain uutisoitavan arvoista.