torstai 28. toukokuuta 2009

My world of sin

Finally got together a teaser of two of the hardest problems in Pyhäntä boulder. The clip is more or less unfinished and full of cutting and editing errors but if you just want a bit more detailed view what those problems are all about check the video.
There is also a raw sequence of a linkup project, which starts with an easy slab and then links the Always broken other way around to No man's land finish, involving 15 hard, fingery, physical and somewhat acrobatic moves of which last two are the hardest. It certainly feels a good notch harder than No man's land assis. Let's see if the project get's it's FA on this season and other problems first repeats. The evenings and nights are still cold and friction good enough to try it and other problems out but the heat will come eventually.

sunnuntai 24. toukokuuta 2009

tiistai 12. toukokuuta 2009

Two classics from Pyhäntä

Here is a short video clip about action taken place in Pyhäntä boulder, the other mecca of Oulu bouldering, during last few years. More video to come from Pyhäntä and other locations as soon as we get it filmed and edited. Just got my hands into the strange but interesting world of video editing so just bear with me if you find the result horrible. It is interesting to see that the process from the raw material to edited clip does not come as easily as dinner to Manu.

torstai 7. toukokuuta 2009

Ystävät hämärän jälkeen


Last wednesday I, Rippe, Tomi and Matti took yet another trip to Oulu bouldering mecca, Luohua, in a mission to send some old projects that had been haunting us all spring. Weather was perfect, it had been cloudy all day and temperatures were around 10 degrees, which was a really pleasant welcome, as two of the projects were on the sunny side of the stone and would soon become even too hard to send because of the heat (just lack of strenght).

After some warm up and some relaxing bullshit it was time to start the action. Rippe immediately got his hands on his high, scary and bold sloper problem which starts with jumpstart to a good jug, continues with a lockoff through good pocket to really bad sloper, match and then you are supposed to make a deadpoint or dyno, if you dare, to an even worse sloper with your feet around 3 and half meters from the ground. After couple of tries ice was broken and Rippe got the deadpoint to the higher sloper spot on but couldn't continue as the hand was slipping from the sloper. He dropped down and gathered some strenght couple of minutes. It was time to make it or break it, an ankle or two. This time he got the deadpoint again spot on, stretched as high as he could reach to a slightly better sloper, put his left foot blindly on a tiny edge and made the horror match to another sloper around six meters. A high ball classic, "Ystävät hämärän jälkeen" had gotten it's first ascent, a truly four star high ball of which you may need balls size of Siwa plastic bags to try and send. Grade suggestion 7Cish, siwa index 5.

Tomi soon took the advantage about the Rippe's send and made a stylish repeat to Standardipoikien homonurkkaus 7B by locking off the crux by everything he got left.

Dark side auki

Olihan se viimein aika laittaa itsekin blogi pystyyn tarkoituksena raportoida Caven poppoon kiipeilyistä Oulun ympäristössä ja muuallakin. Yritetään päivittää blogia säännöllisen epäsäännöllisesti, ainakin silloin kun on jotain uutisoitavan arvoista.