torstai 28. toukokuuta 2009
There is also a raw sequence of a linkup project, which starts with an easy slab and then links the Always broken other way around to No man's land finish, involving 15 hard, fingery, physical and somewhat acrobatic moves of which last two are the hardest. It certainly feels a good notch harder than No man's land assis. Let's see if the project get's it's FA on this season and other problems first repeats. The evenings and nights are still cold and friction good enough to try it and other problems out but the heat will come eventually.
tiistai 12. toukokuuta 2009
torstai 7. toukokuuta 2009
Last wednesday I, Rippe, Tomi and Matti took yet another trip to
After some warm up and some relaxing bullshit it was time to start the action. Rippe immediately got his hands on his high, scary and bold sloper problem which starts with jumpstart to a good jug, continues with a lockoff through good pocket to really bad sloper, match and then you are supposed to make a deadpoint or dyno, if you dare, to an even worse sloper with your feet around 3 and half meters from the ground. After couple of tries ice was broken and Rippe got the deadpoint to the higher sloper spot on but couldn't continue as the hand was slipping from the sloper. He dropped down and gathered some strenght couple of minutes. It was time to make it or break it, an ankle or two. This time he got the deadpoint again spot on, stretched as high as he could reach to a slightly better sloper, put his left foot blindly on a tiny edge and made the horror match to another sloper around six meters. A high ball classic, "Ystävät hämärän jälkeen" had gotten it's first ascent, a truly four star high ball of which you may need balls size of Siwa plastic bags to try and send. Grade suggestion 7Cish, siwa index 5.
Tomi soon took the advantage about the Rippe's send and made a stylish repeat to Standardipoikien homonurkkaus 7B by locking off the crux by everything he got left.